The Cane Dart Experience

by Gary L. Fogelman
5/24/2006

Editor's Note: The following article comes from the Pennsylvania Atlatl Association newsletter and is one of the finest overall articles on atlatls and darts that I have read. Although it deals mainly with cane darts, everyone should read it to have a better understanding of the relationship between their atlatl and dart and the throwing process. I hope to have some more 'How To' articles in the future.
 
Gary writes:
 
I issue the following in the same vein as my article on throwing the first 98, i.e. that I don't declare it to be all that interesting, or even important, but these are things that have enabled me to have a degree of success and all I hope or can at most expect is that someone can get one little thing out of all this that will help them become a better atlatlist.
 
If you don't use cane darts and never expect to, you can probably jump ahead to Part II. (Editor's Note: I don't actually recommend doing that because you'll miss out on some good stuff.)
 
Part I... on Achieving Accuracy
 
MAKING AND CARING FOR CANE DARTS
 
  The first step in gaining accuracy is to have equipment that is reliable and matches your throwing style. This is garnered mostly through trial and error. Having sound equipment removes guesswork and leads to confidence. 
 
The most important part of the system is the dart.
 
If you don't have a dart with the right length and flex to match your atlatls length, it makes your task that much harder. By the way, you should have equipment matched to your size. I see children and women using atlatls and darts that are too big for them to handle efficiently.
 
  The quest for the best dart has been an interesting one and I might relate my own experiences that have me using cane darts, the subject of this treatise.
 
  My first atlatl and dart system was a set of three 5' aluminum darts and a 'Mammoth Hunter' style atlatl that employed an aluminum ball as the hook. This system was fashioned by BPS Engineering in Montana and replicates examples from the High Plain. The aluminum darts replicated the small, light darts of the plains, but were more durable than cane or reed. By the way, I recommend that all beginners, even others, get some aluminum darts. They're not great for accuracy, but they're fun to throw, and they're durable. I still have some of my originals and they have to have thousands of throws on them. This durability is important.
 
I can't imagine how my enthusiasm might have been affected if I had to repair darts all the time. This durability allows continued enjoyment, but more important, one learns how the system operates and how to make it operate efficiently. One should go out in a large space and just toss those darts until winging them and getting close to intended targets becomes a casual thing. And it will.
 
  I used the aluminum darts for 5 years or so, but only in a casual way for demonstrations. In 1989 the Eastern Seaboard Atlatl Championship were begun. Virtually everyone was using BPS systems with aluminum darts. In a year or two wooden darts would begin to appear and some saw the writing on the wall early on. I didn't see the writing until 1994 or 95 when I attended the first Pennsylvania State Championship in Ligonier, hosted by Chuck Butorajac. Most there were already turning to wooden darts and me and my aluminum finished far back in the pack. I began looking for something else.
 
  That something else would be darts fashioned after those being using by Pascal Chaveaux of Belgium. He won the World Championship in 1996 using 7-1/2' darts made of Hemlock and tapered at both ends. I believe I saw one that Bob Berg had, tried it, and decided to go that way. The only way to get them though was to make them. Fortunately a friend has a gun-making business and all kinds of lathes and metal saws and etc.
 
  At about this time I switched atlatls as well. Wanting to compete in the Primitive category, the aluminum ball had to go. Not a big problem, the model came with an antler hook. I've used the same atlatl ever since, only recently bringing my backup, basically identical, into play.
 
  I used the Hemlock darts in 1997 and 1998, winning the World Championship with one in 1998. But in 1999 I began looking once again, mainly because of the difficulty of keeping enough reliable darts on hand, arising from the difficulty of making them, and the wooden points I used in them. Yeah, wooden points, what was I thinking?
 
  At the time Chuck B. was producing darts consisting of two lengths of dowel joined in the center. These weren't bad, had good flight and I used them most of 1999. They were good for shooting bales but a weak point, if you will, was in the hafting system. The points were affixed right to the end of the dowel and when subjected to hard treatment would often fail.
 
  I remember the day at Keefer's that year when Terry and I came out of the woods after doing the European Round. My equipment was in shambles (more my fault than that of Chuck's darts. They probably could have been amended to a fore shaft system, but they were also too heavy.) I looked at Terry and said, "I broke 2 of my darts and the third needs attention. How many did you break?" "None" he said. I knew that he'd missed a few targets, as I had. I was also familiar with his cane darts and now I knew what my next ones would be as well.
 
CANE DARTS
 
Step 1: Getting the cane
 
  The darts Terry used were made of river cane from the south. Who began using it and when I cannot say. It was becoming the material of choice probably in 1997. It's a system that employs a fore shaft for affixing the tip to the main shaft. Length varies from 5-7 feet generally. But, to make these darts one had to have the cane and it was not plentiful.
 
I remember once, in desperation, calling a friend in Alabama and imploring him to please send me some cane. He did, and it worked, but those were expensive darts.
 
  Then, because of the scarcity of cane in our circle, we decided to go south and get it ourselves. I believe it was Terry who first made the trip south, and for the last 5 or 6 years it has been a highlight of the spring. The trips have been thoroughly enjoyable events, weather notwithstanding, and passing on some tips may be helpful to those who wish to try it.
 
  We go south some time in January or February after looking for a good weather window. At least we try, but seem to have the darndest luck in this regard. Heading to Georgia or the Carolina's in February offers a first glimpse of fair weather to us northerners. Yet, 'unseasonably cold weather' is a phrase we're very familiar with. But a benefit of the weather at this time of year is there have been no problems with snakes or insects.
 
  Besides the cane there's the trip itself. Undertaken with a car full, or even one, friend makes for an enjoyable ride. Where one heads is quite variable. The cane is in all the Southeastern states, including: FL, GA, AL, NC, SC, MS, TN and KY at least. On one or two of our trips we were in the area of Plains, GA. Other times we've headed to Myrtle Beach, SC and operated out of there.
 
  On our most recent trip I kept an eye on the cane along the major highways down and back. It begins to appear in lower Virginia or northern NC, but is small and sparse, at least along the roads. Whether there are good stands elsewhere in those areas is not known. It becomes increasingly more populous, and larger and more vigorous, by southern NC.
 
  At this time of year the cane may be somewhat dormant although it will be green with fluffy tops. Knowledge of its requirements can help locate stands. It likes to be near water, so swamps and low-lying areas are necessary. It is seldom right in the water, but grows on slightly elevated root hillocks. We often have to maneuver around or through water during harvest.
 
  The little hillocks can produce up to 7 or so stalks it seems. I don't know the life cycle but the cane has limits to size and years of growth. It doesn't seem to continue growing like bamboo and never attains the height and girth of that plant. It grows 2-3 years I'd guess, and then dies. Maximum diameter is ¾-1" or so.
 
  It obviously reproduces by seeds as evidenced by its spread to far-flung low-lying areas. It may also reproduce by sending out runners, like bamboo but I don't know this for sure. Of the shoots growing in a clump, there are two distinct variations. It seems that those growing around the outside of the root clump are light and spindly. These have no fluffy clusters on the top. What we look for in a clump are those shoots that have grown the tallest and with the thickest, fluffiest clusters on the top. These are the ones that have developed strength supporting the top growth.
 
  The cane clusters will spread out depending on conditions. Cane growing on the edges or in the open is not the largest. It gets too much sun I'd guess. The best shoots are found in an open canopy, which allows some sunlight to penetrate for the plants to reach for. Initial testing of resiliency can be conducted as it stands and if flex is judged suitable, and length and thickness are suitable, the stalk is harvested.
 
  Our usual M.O. is to go to familiar patches known from previous trips or from someone else's previous trips and harvesting success. If we have to search for a patch we cruise around checking low-lying areas along the roads and keeping on eye on field edges. Thus far we have experienced no opposition to gathering cane. We will go to a nearby residence, explain what we are doing, inquire as to the owner of the property and would they mind us cutting some cane?
 
  We've also harvested along busy highways and I have to believe police have observed our activities. Harvesting cane is not foreign to these areas. It's used from what I understand in making crab traps, the tops are used somehow in shrimp traps, and we're all familiar with cane poles. 
 
It's a benign activity and if the above conventions are followed there should be no problems in harvesting.
 
DRESS
  Although it is a benign activity one should be dressed properly.
 
Sometimes conditions will be chilly so jackets will be necessary. Gloves are essential. Long pants and long sleeve shirt or sweatshirt will protect from the pickers and thorns and insects. Waterproof, and perhaps warm, footwear are also good. I mention insects but they're seldom a problem at this time of year. It seems I remember someone had a tick on them once.
 
GEAR
Garden snips; machete or two; duct tape; rope or rubber straps.
 
CHOOSING
  Once the cane patch is located the harvest begins. I've already mentioned a couple of key points. First, look to the tops. Seek out the tallest cane with the fluffiest clusters on top. These have developed strength through supporting the top growth. Flex and strength can be tested before cutting. I might mention that Jack Rowe on his most recent trip noted that someone had come to one cane patch and cut off all the fluffy tops, something about using them somehow in harvesting shrimp. I do not know how widespread this practice is; it's the first we've experienced it.
 
  If judged suitable as to length, flex and straightness, the stalk is harvested. A pair of garden snips work well. Cut as close to the ground as possible, or as close to desired maximum diameter. Some stalks are 7-8' long. These are usually 5/8 - ¾" in diameter at ground level, too thick for my liking, but up a foot or so they may be just right. 
 
At any rate it doesn't hurt anything to keep them longer than desired at this point.
 
  Once snipped, begin a pile and accumulate what's handy in the area you're working. In order to vary the routine a bit, I accumulate 25 or 50 stalks, and then take them to a slightly more open area where trimming can be done.
 
TRIMMING
  This step is best accomplished with a machete. Leaf stems emanate from most of the upper nodes, and the top needs snipped. This is the nock end, so trim as necessary... keeping in mind that this end has to accept the atlatl hook. I usually try to locate the nock on a node for increased strength, though this isn't necessary. Clip above the node at its greatest diameter. This allows more to work with. Again though, leave a node or two above where you expect to put the nock.
 
  Put the distal or thick end on the ground and slide the machete down the stalk. This will trim off the stems and nodes. Turn and trim all the way up. Lest I forget, a good pair of gloves is also essential. The cane patches often contain pickers and thorns. The gloves will also protect your hands at the trimming stage should you lose control of the machete or have bad aim and clip a finger.
 
BUNDLING
  The last step in the harvest is the bundling. On most of our trips this was rather hastily accomplished, I mean after all, tie 'em up and get 'em on the car! That way you can harvest more! Put them in bundles of 25, or more, wrap them here and there and tie 'em to the top of the van... but wait.
 
  I was fairly certain that I had taken some pains with the stalks that I picked, looking for long, straight ones. Kinky and curved ones didn't have to be taken. Yet, quite often after getting the stalks home I was surprised, and saddened, to see I'd cut such crooked, kinky stuff!
 
  On our most recent trip (Feb. 2006), I took greater pains with the bundling. Only ten stalks at a time were bundled, as tightly and as straight as possible, with duct tape, at intervals of 10-12 inches. I can report a marked difference in the cane when I got home. So, one of three possibilities exists: One - I happened upon the perfect cane patch where all stalks were straight and perfect and will stay that way. two - I chose wisely and ended up with mostly straight and perfect stalks... or three - the bundling/wrapping technique just described is effective and lessens curvature and twisting during transport. I favor number three.
 
  The bundles are then tied to the top of the vehicle and transported home. Usually the trip to and from, though enjoyable, is uneventful. Unless Chris Pappas is along and driving, but that's another story concerning a very irate truck driver that wanted to kill us. But one other trip is also noteworthy. The weather was, heh, heh, "Unseasonably Cold" as we finished the harvest and headed home. The temperature was 31-32 degrees and it was letting down a freezing drizzle. Two noteworthy observations: the roads never iced, and neither did the windshield, but the storm was all the way up and down the east coast and we drove home in those conditions from Myrtle Beach.
 
  At one point in North Carolina we pulled off for gas and went to the nearest station. I know Jack and Terry were along, maybe Dennis (Editor's note: yes, I was there)that year and while I gassed up the van they headed inside for snacks and drinks and restroom. In a bit Jack came out and said, "The guy inside wants to meet you." I said, "What?"
 
  The owner inside had seen us pull up with all the cane on top the van.
 
When Jack walked in the owner, probably thinking he was being funny, up and piped, "What are you going to do with all that cane, make atlatl darts?" Jack said, "Yeah, how'd you know that?"
 
  The owner answered, "I read INDIAN ARTFACT MAGAZINE that Gary Fogelman publishes," and Jack said, "Well, he's outside pumping gas right now!"
 
  So I did go in and meet the owner and two of his collecting friends.
 
The meeting was necessarily brief, in the midst of the storm and all and I'd hoped to repeat it on another occasion and perhaps take time to see some artifacts from that area. Sadly, not a few months later I received notification that the gentleman had suffered a heart attack and died. (Editor's Note: The gentleman's name was Mike Adams and it was sad news.)
 
THE WORK BEGINS
  Up to now it's all been fun and games, but now the cane is home and must be turned into darts. Since the trimming and cleaning took place in the field it's mostly ready to go. To save time and harvest more cane one could forego the trimming and cleaning and put in larger bundles. I highly recommend, knowing what lies ahead, that once you harvest the cane you treat it right and you can save time later. You greatly increase time involved if you let it bend and kink.
 
  At this stage the stalks are green, although a few second or third year stalks may by involved. These are often more dried out than regular shoots. I prefer to work the cane from the green stage and not let it dry out first. It can be worked dry. It seems to go better if heated and straightened while green. If dry, one can add moisture back to the stalks. I know Jack has mentioned that on occasion he'll bundle some up and submerge them in the creek for a while. 
 
I've taken some and thrown them out in the yard to pick up moisture overnight from the dew. However, the moisture does have to be driven out of them once again during straightening.
 
   The same concepts used for bundling the cane for transport should also be used for storing excess cane. Keep it tightly wrapped and as straight as possible. Drying will occur but if it's constrained the kinking, twisting and bending will be kept to a minimum.
 
It's these various qualities of resiliency, durability and workability that makes cane so amenable for making darts. As you will see.
 
HEATING AND STRAIGHTENING
  Just before heating and straightening I rasp the nodes. They already have been trimmed with the machete but little jagged pieces can remain.
 
Too, some nodes are swollen or lumpy and it doesn't hurt to take them down a little. I begin at the large end and each node is rasped all the way around. This also helps with the overall appearance and aids in the straightening by reducing humps and bumps.
 
HEAT SOURCE
  There are various ways to apply heat, you'll have to figure out what works for you. I use a propane torch in a base to secure it in a standing position. Good, heat resistant gloves are necessary for this step. Up to this time extra length has been left on each end. If one knows precisely the length and diameter, etc., desired, more can be snipped off. This is possible if one has a template to go by. The template in this instance is your best dart. However, each piece of cane is individualistic. There are desired specs that will be aimed for regarding length, diameter, weight and flex. Leaving the additional length allows more latitude in getting close to the specs as trimming can occur at both ends. More on this as we go along.
 
  The cane has nodes, and spaces between the nodes. The whole stalk has to be heated. Not to straighten it necessarily, it may be straight, but it still needs uniformly heated up to drive out the moisture. If this isn't done moisture will continue to be drawn from it until it is all gone, and thus bending and kinking can occur.
 
  In an experiment, I weighed some of my stalks before and after the heating/straightening process. Up to 12-14 grams of weight were lost.
 
The weight of the stalk is important because you need to know how much your darts weigh so you can aim for that weight for the darts you're making. As with each spec individually, some leeway is possible but overall one doesn't want to veer drastically from the specs.
 
  I begin at the thick end, and begin first by heating and straightening the spaces between the nodes. Holding the cane in both hands, one on either side of the area to be heated, the cane is passed along and through the flame, back and forth, rotating the cane all the while.
 
With practice you'll develop the process but what you cannot allow to happen is for the cane to get blackened and/or actually burn. The cane is made up of several layers, I don't know how many, but it's kind of like your skin. You can sacrifice a layer or two, as you will see, and not necessarily ruin the dart, but go too deep and you will do just that. Even heat needs to be applied to turn the outer layer a toasty brown. This heats up the cane to the point where it becomes pliable.
 
This is what allows it to be straightened and bent, giving it a new memory.
 
BLOWOUTS
  The heating of cane is for the purpose of straightening and drying.
 
Applying heat will of course heat up any moisture in that area and turn it into steam. The steam usually finds its way out the ends or along the joints at the nodes. Each node is a section onto itself with a divider between them that sometimes make effective seals at each node.
 
Trimming with the machete and rasping seem to facilitate areas for the steam to escape, as it knocks off protrusions, remains of stems, high ridges, etc., that sometimes allow passage ways for the steam to escape.
 
  Sometimes, however, the steam doesn't escape and is trapped inside and cannot find a way out..except to burst out through the side! I'd heard others talk of this, and Bob Berg won't work cane as he feels that a hole has to be drilled in each section to let the steam escape. On the other hand, I worked quite a bit of it and it hadn't happened and I was beginning to think it an old wives tale. Now imagine what sounds like at least a .45 caliber handgun going off in front of you,..when you least expect it. Because eventually it did happen and it was...startling! It really does make a bang and in the confines of a room it's magnified.
 
  But, it's not life threatening or even menacing for that matter. It's happened perhaps a dozen times now, and seems to happen mostly when I have a stubborn kink or place that I might apply just a bit more heat to. It happens mostly on the thicker areas mid-length to tip. On occasion it has happened when I've laid the piece on the bench and begun to roll it. So far as I've determined there is nothing that is expelled when this happens except some hot air. After the first time subsequent events, while startling, at least are more quickly identified as to what has happened. Thus, heart rate and skin color will return to normal more quickly so you can get back to work.
 
  A blowout does not necessarily ruin the stalk. The cane will split to allow the hot air to escape. This can be epoxied and clamped, or wrapped. The cane will maintain its integrity.
 
  So you apply heat to the length to be straightened/dried, and when heated to the point where elasticity is affected, you straighten as necessary. You can bend it between your thumbs to remove bends and curves. You can put an end on the floor or bench with the curve up and bend against the curve. Use this same technique and rub your thumb or hand against the curve, bend or kink.
 
  For a better overall finish, and what works really good, is to roll the heated section between two hard surfaces. This is easily accomplished on a corner of your bench or table, even the floor if necessary. All you need is a piece of fiberboard or light plywood that you can manipulate easily with one hand, say 6" wide by 10" long by 1/8" thick.
 
Put the heated section on the bench, the other piece on top and roll back and forth while exerting downward pressure.
 
  As you heat the spaces between the joints or nodes, leave an inch or so on each side of each node. After heating and straightening all the spaces, now go back and repeat the process on each node area. Leaving an inch or so on each side of the node allows greater flexibility in working with that area. Heat, straighten and roll as before or as necessary. You don't have to do the rolling process if the area is already straight. I've found that it does help in overall finish if the whole thing is rolled.
 
  Don't expect to get all the kinks out the first time. Get it all heated and in pretty good shape, then set it aside for a day or so, or just overnight. I found that stalks heated and set aside lost another 2 grams of weight overnight. They may lose another 1 or 2 grams but should by now be getting very close to final weight as all the moisture will be gone. They won't truly stop slightly bending and warping until it is. By the end of the process just described this is achieved. It has to be so you can accurately predict the weight of the stalk you are working with.
 
  So, next day or after a day or so, give each dart the eyeball and just attack the problem areas and straighten and roll, etc., as necessary.
 
You should have by now a fairly straight shaft to work with.
 
STANDARDIZATION
  I have found that to achieve success at building good darts it is possible, and preferable, to standardize some of the parts for greater success in the end product, greater speed in production and greater speed in fixing broken things. To this end, I'll heat and straighten a number of shafts, 10, 20, whatever, and work on them all the way through to the end.
 
If I haven't already done it, now is the time that other things have to be considered.
 
Epoxy - 5-minute epoxy is used throughout. This comes in a tube with two sections. Equal amounts of both are squeezed out and thoroughly mixed.
 
Epoxy is applied to both surfaces to be joined. Then you have to wait until the 'set' begins, and then join both surfaces, or parts. Though the slower drying epoxy claims a stronger poundage bond, the 5-minute variety is more than adequate.
 
Feathers - You'll have to have feathers on hand. I like to begin with full-length 10-11" feathers and cut and trim them to the 8" finished length and shape. I apply a standard 3-feather fletch, beginning 4" down from the nock.
 
  The feathers are applied with the same glue epoxy. It is possible before feathering to figure out where the lead or guide feather will be on the dart by letting it seek its balance point, on a thin edge, or pencil for example, and then feather accordingly, putting the guide feather on the surface that settled up. Space the other two feathers evenly from the guide feather. The strip on the shaft where the feather is going should be filed clean before epoxy and feather are applied.
 
The tip should be on before feathering. If done properly there is little mess and the feathers go right on. There is enough time that I can and usually do feather up two darts at a time, i.e. six feathers. (Editor's Note: I use good contact cement and superglue for fletching. I epoxy coat the wrap on each end of the fletching and I have never had a feather come off... and my darts have been thrown tens of thousands of times. Gary's darts with epoxy are likely the same.)
 
Fore shaft - Actually there are two parts two this. The wood and the tip.
 
The wood - I have found many woods that will work in this capacity. It necessarily has to be a tough, tenacious and dense wood. Those that I have used and found to work well are oak, cherry, hickory, Purple Heart and Osage orange.
 
  You cannot generally go out and purchase the dowels made of these woods so you may have to find a way to turn them down to the desired size, which for me is 3/8" diameter. This way you can get a tight fit by using a 3/8" drill bit to drill out the end of the main shaft in the cane to accept the fore shaft.
 
  I am fortunate to have a friend who is a gunsmith and gun maker so I have access to lathes and metal saws. I cut the wood into ½" square sections 6-7" in length. Then I turn it down on the lathe. I leave a little extra mass on the end where the tip will be attached.
 
The point - I use copper for the tip of the dart. It's durable, and qualifies for the primitive category. Finished weight of the copper tip is 15g, length about 1". The shape is standard, i.e. slightly shouldered with a straight tang or stem. Width is that allowed by contest rules, just under ¾". These are cut from a flat bar of copper which is 1" wide, 1/8" thick and variable in length but generally 10-12". Many flintknapping suppliers have these copper bars. I have a master point, or template and I trace this onto the copper strip. These are then cut out using a metal saw. The edges of the point are thick and have to be ground to an edge and the tip sharpened.
 
  Then, these have to be inserted into the fore shafts, which have to be slotted, probably with a band saw. Try to make accurate cuts so the point fits tightly. Put epoxy on the stem of the copper point, insert into the fore shaft, and wrap with dental floss. Then give the dental floss a coat of epoxy.
 
TALKING MASS
  I have to comment that the mass at the end of your dart has an important function. This is to act as a stop for the energy you have put in the dart, and send it back along the shaft. This sets up what is known as oscillation harmonics, with the energy bouncing back and forth along the shaft. This is why the dart looks like its vibrating or fluttering when it flies. It is actually bending up and down, up and down. The smoother these harmonics, the more even and true the flight will be. A good dart will have good harmonics, will even out quickly and fly smoothly. It's fun to watch and make happen.
 
  I mention this because my 15-gram point isn't a lot of mass. Neither were bifurcated points, or Lamoka points for that matter, so I believe some mass is probably involved in the haft itself. The haft is the U-shaped notch cut into the end of the fore shaft into which the stem of the copper point is inserted. I purposely leave that end thicker for a half-inch or so, than the rest of the fore shaft. It adds some strength to that area for greater durability, but it also adds some mass. This end also needs to be tapered before inserting and fastening the point in.
 
  Let me say a little more on this weight thing, because I'm sure not all my points weigh exactly ten grams. Any discrepancy is handled by the enlarged end of the fore shaft. So long as the point stays within certain limits it will function as desired. 
 
To illustrate this one need only look at 'arrowhead' collections. All collections are full of seemingly nice and complete points, but one wonders why did the Indians throw all these seemingly nice and complete points away? Quite simply, each atlatl and dart system was developed to accommodate a certain size projectile point that the group used. These points started out a certain size but through attrition were constantly being reduced in size and, more importantly, weight. At some point the weight loss affected the efficiency because oscillation harmonics will be changing. This can be overcome to some degree by adjusting your throw, but this defeats consistency.
 
  At this time the point was replaced with a new point of proper size and weight, even though the old one still looked 'good'. Also, I can tell you that if I lose one of my 15-gram copper tips I know it immediately upon hefting the dart for a throw, and most assuredly realize it if I do throw because the dart responds much differently.
 
ASSEMBLY
  As you can now see, getting the cane is only part of the process. You have to get wood for fore shafts and be able to turn them down, or have someone do it, or buy them already done somehow, somewhere. You have to get copper for the tips and be able to cut points out of it, or get them already done somehow, somewhere. You have to have feathers on hand from somebody, somewhere. All of these things do cost money. 
 
The cane is 'free', but you have to go get it, so it's not so free. At current gas prices it'll cost probably 50-60 dollars worth of gas. You have to get the wood for the fore shafts, and then maybe pay someone to make the dowels. You'll have to probably pay for the copper, and maybe pay for someone to make the points. You'll have to buy feathers. 
 
Best buy on feathers is buying 100 at a time, and this will cost you 35-55 dollars per hundred.
 
  But, you have all this material and are ready to finally assemble the components. You now have to bring the shaft to final length. To this time we have left it longer than necessary so it can be trimmed to desired specifications. 
 
There are several factors that need to be coordinated. If the cane has been chosen wisely some of the work is lessened by having a template to go by. Using a template one could just cut off the shafts to desired length and diameter and some of these would turn out fine, but a more important factor is the flex of the shaft.
 
  But first, let's discuss length and some other things. Over the years I've had people express to me their desire to have darts all the same length, weight, etc., a matched set. Length, like all the aspects, is variable within certain parameters. My darts may vary up to 5" in overall length. They may vary in their weight a bit. They may vary in the flex and the forward center of balance point. But in each dart these things come together and even then there are parameters.
 
  It's not important that all my darts are the same length, weight, etc., though it is best to have them close. One doesn't want drastic weight differences between darts in your quiver. Differences over 1 ounce in weight is probably too much. Differences more than a pound in the flex is probably too much. More on this later, but using a template will necessarily bring you close in all these aspects.
 
  However, the heart of the matter, and the most important factor to control is the flex of the dart. I have a small scale that I hook to the nock and pull down on which shows me how much poundage it takes to flex the dart fully. By the way, my thoughts on the matters of mass and points and importance of flex have come through many conversations with the original Atlatl Bob, Bob Perkins.
 
  The darts must have spine to take the great amount of force it will be subjected to. Just like arrows must fit the poundage of the bow, the same goes for the darts and the atlatl.
 
ADJUSTING THE FLEX
  The shaft has been left longer than necessary so trimming can be done. The nock end should already be cut to within a node or two of finished length. One now needs to weigh the shaft and test the flex. I have a postal scale that weighs in ounces and grams. Working with grams is more precise. 
 
Again, using the template method and knowing the parameters you're aiming for you should be able to bring the shaft close to specs.
 
  First, test the flex. What I'm looking for is a shaft that flexes anywhere from 4.5 - 5.5 pounds. Most that flex within these limits will be good throwing darts. Even some outside these bounds will be good. My best dart pulls at 4.25 and another favorite pulls at 6.0.
 
  After seeing where the flex is, you also have to check the length and weight. My darts vary a couple of inches each side of 86", without the fore shaft. Here are some things that now have to be kept in mind.
 
First, you will gain a bit of flex with the addition of the fore shaft.
 
Second, I try to make the final distal cut 1" below a node. 
 
Third, I try to locate the nock just above or on a node. 
 
Fourth, you will gain some weight with the addition of the fore shaft. Numbers 2 and 3 are not hard and fast rules. Locating the nock on a node gives additional strength, and diameter, to the nock. Locating the distal end 1" below a node gives the fore shaft something to 'seat' against.
 
  If the shaft is too flexible, adjustment is made by snipping off the nock end, as most of the flex occurs where the cane is narrowest. Also, take note of overall weight. If it's substantially heavy, weight is removed by cutting off the distal end. By working both ends one attempts to bring the shaft into the specs for length, weight and flexibility.
 
Another note: Final flex poundage can only be determined if the fore shaft is inserted. I have a circular hose clamp used to keep the fore shaft in place while testing.
 
  Adjustments made by snipping or cutting should be made in small increments. It may not always be possible to locate the nock at a node or the distal end below a node. The requirements of flex supersede these, as these areas can and will be strengthened and reinforced with wrap and epoxy anyway.
 
  When the shaft is finally within the length, flex and weight requirements, final assembly can commence. I might add that although fairly reliable, final result is not automatically guaranteed. I've had shafts that seemed perfect, all specs met, yet do not work for my delivery. Not many, mind you, and if I work a group of 10 shafts into darts, I've come to expect that 8 or 9 and maybe all 10 will be very good darts.
 
  The next step is to bevel the distal end where you insert the fore shaft, just as you beveled the end of the fore shaft itself. The end will be flat from cutting it with a band saw; this flat edge needs reduced, like sharpening a pencil. This really does aid in penetration so don't forget it. Then, take medium grade sandpaper and go over the whole shaft. Then do the same with a fine grade paper. It doesn't take long and adds up to a better finish.
 
  The distal end needs drilled out to the diameter of the fore shaft. I turn my fore shafts down to 3/8" and thus can use the same size drill bit. This part isn't hard and it's easy to keep straight, but a variable speed drill helps. The drill will automatically center its way in the shaft. Only go an inch or so or as far as you wish to insert the fore shaft. Using gloves and with a firm grip this can done right in hand without a vice. Insert the fore shaft and give it a 'sighting' down along the shaft to see that all is in alignment. Some ends of darts aren't exactly straight, and some fore shafts aren't exactly straight but by rotating the fore shaft while sighting you can find the best alignment. 
 
Too, some straightening can be done after the fore shaft is all affixed.
 
  Mix some epoxy, put some on the end of the fore shaft to go into the main shaft. Insert in and out and make sure epoxy is all around the inside of the main shaft. For this step I find it is not necessary to wait for the epoxy to take a set. I put them together and wrap it and then try to get the wrap covered with epoxy too, all in one operation.
 
  It's not necessary to wrap more than 20-25 turns and probably less would suffice. If using actual sinew less may be preferred to keep the profile down.
 
  Go to the nock and reinforce that area, 10-15 turns is usually enough, and cover the wrap with epoxy.
 
  Next come the feathers, and this process has been previously described as to how to apply. They should already be cut to length and configuration. You can use a feather-holder/applicator. This is nothing more than a couple of pieces of Formica 1-1/2" wide by 9" long. The feather is placed between these with the spine of the feather exposed to receive the epoxy. They are held together with a little paper clamp.
 
For this operation you must wait until the set begins after applying epoxy to both the feather and the shaft. I only have three feather holders, so if I do the usual six feathers (two darts), three of the feathers just lie on the bench, so feather holders aren't really necessary if you don't have any and don't want to make any.
 
  While mixing the epoxy you will want to try to predict how much you will need for the task at hand. Only experience will tell you this. As assembly progresses with several darts, excess can be used where reinforcement of feathers or wrap is needed. You won't always guess right, and if you come out short that's fine, you can catch up with it at a time when you have extra. At any rate when all finished the nock area will be wrapped and coated with epoxy. The copper point will have been epoxied and inserted into the fore shaft, then wrapped and the wrap coated with epoxy. The fore shaft will have epoxy applied to the end, inserted into the main shaft, wrapped, and that wrap coated with epoxy.
 
And the feathers have to be applied and reinforced.
 
  After mixing the glue, apply a coating to each feather spine, and also to the area on the dart where the feather will go. Now you wait, 5-8 minutes until the 'set' begins. It's at this point you want to put the feathers on. It's not a problem doing three at once, for if timed correctly the feathers go right on. Most feathers are naturally curved and they will not stay in place until the set does occur.
 
  One last step with the feathers is another step that can be taken when you have some excess epoxy. I like to put a dab at each end of the feather, and several spots along the length.
 
  Well, pretty much all done. Still two things left to do, decoration and finish coat. But first, you now get to go and test the thing you've built. The shaft should have withstood several flex tests by now, but failures often show up here upon testing. The most noted failure will have the dart snapping a node or two below the feathers. This is where a lot of the flex occurs upon application of force.
 
FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
  Even after you're all finished you can make some adjustments if necessary. Darts that are not rigid enough will invariably fly low left for me. This means the dart is too flexible. There are two things you can do. If drastically too flexible, you'll have to shorten the shaft, taking some off the nock end, and probably ending up re-feathering too.
 
Doing this may take you out of your comfortable range for overall length, and weight. The first thing to try is to flex the dart and note where it flexes the most. This area for a length of 10-12 inches or more can be wrapped. The tighter and longer the wrap the more flex will be affected. 
 
In this way I've been able to bring a wayward dart into line. However, depending on how long and how tight an area is wrapped, weight can be affected.
 
  On the other hand, a dart may be too rigid. This I can tell because the darts fly high right for me. The only thing that I've come up with to do is to rasp the area of flex. This will work up to a degree and should be done carefully. One can also use the rasp to decrease overall weight by a couple of grams. But keep in mind; the cane is made up of layers, as noted before. Some of these layers are expendable but too much in one area and you weaken that area. By rasping and test throwing I've been able to watch a dart go from flying high right to flying to center.
 
REPAIRS
  Repairing cane is also fairly easy. Sometimes while straightening I'll bend or crimp an area. This doesn't seem to hurt it much and can be reinforced with wrap and epoxy if necessary. I've stepped on or otherwise crushed a section of cane. Using epoxy, this type of damage can be fixed. 
 
Sometimes the nock end is 'robin-hooded' and splits. This can be rebuilt.
 
FINAL WORK
  After test throwing the dart and determining if it qualifies to be finished, it must be given any decoration desired, and a final finish coat of something. Decoration for me is simply going back to the torch and darkening some areas on the cane. Usually the heating and straightening process has the same effect.
 
  The last thing to do then is to put a finish on the dart. This will seal it and protect it from gaining moisture, and also seems to enhance keeping it from bending or twisting. The best thing I've found is tongue oil. I suppose varnish or shellac would work but I've not tried them. The tongue oil I use has a quick drying agent added. Make sure you use this kind or it seems to take forever to dry. Which is probably why I don't use varnish or shellac. Too, the tongue oil can be re-applied at will without ugly discoloring or buildup. It is affected by the weather and if the darts are subjected to a wet tournament they'll probably have to be given another coat.
 
  Which is no big deal. I use disposable plastic gloves, but the tongue oil is not harsh on the skin anyway it's..oil. I use a rag and apply it to the dart by wrapping the dart in the rag and running it back and forth. I use a brush to apply down between the feathers. They will dry in hours on a warm day, or overnight for sure.
 
MAINTENANCE
  Periodically you should show your darts some TLC. 
 
Feathers will fray.
 
The finish will dull. If the finish isn't kept up it could bend or warp a bit. Given the proper care your dart will last a long time and serve you well. I often have darts 2-3 years old in my quiver. Every so often check the straightness. You may have to tweak it a place or two.
 
Usually the bending stops once the dart is completely dry.
 
  If you do adjust straightness with heat this will ruin the finish so you'll have to use the tongue oil again. I believe the oil is good for the wood, or plant stalk in this case. It keeps it fresh and from drying out and gives it life and longevity.
 
  Before each contest I go over the darts in my quiver. I sharpen any points that may need it. Copper is fairly durable and a point could and has served for years. I'll check all the wrappings to see that they're secure and not fraying. Wrapping on the tip and fore shaft/main shaft connection are constantly subjected to wear. Feathers will sometimes need trimmed, repaired or replaced. Too many people do not pay enough attention to many of these facets. Perhaps they would if they could go to a bunch of 18 darts, pick any one, and have complete faith and trust in it. This trust and faith in equipment becomes more important for Part II of this treatise.
 
Part II: WORKING ON ACHIEVING ACCURACY
  Back in 2004 I set a new World Record, for however briefly, and became the first person to throw a 98 in competition. There were many years of throwing and practicing behind that 98. After throwing it I wrote a story about it, not to brag, but to pass on the techniques, thoughts, strategies and practices that got me there, so that others might possibly gain in their efforts. It was a series of things that led to that 98, from finding my ultimate dart, to developing a delivery, to success at home, to confidence in competition.
 
  First, my ultimate dart. I have to admit it was dumb luck. My first cane darts were fashioned after some Terry had. I can't say I used his as a template because his system uses a much more rigid and heavier dart than mine. At the time I was trying to trim down the weight of my darts, tired of throwing 5-6 ounces around. With the cane I was able to get darts in the 4-ounce range. Talking with Bob Perkins alerted me to the notice I should be taking of the flex.
 
  Keeping all this in mind I worked up some darts. Right away I had, more fun! Winging the cane around was a joy. To control it would take some work. Which I did. Matter of fact, I overworked. It was attempting to gain control of the new system that tore up my shoulder and hindered me for two years.
 
  During this time I began taking note of the various aspects of the dart; the length, diameter, weight and flex and by staying with the specs of my best darts began producing reliable, competitive darts.
 
  Then one day I remember I was terribly low on cane. All I had left were a couple of long, slender stalks that I figured were too thin. But then I recalled Chuck B's darts, and their middle name is long and thin.
 
Having had the pleasure of throwing them I knew they felt.good.
 
  So I straightened the long, spindly stalks and came out with a dart that was 92" long, including the fore shaft. This was about 5-6 inches longer than I had been throwing. It weighed 120g, just a tad lighter than I'd been throwing. It flexed at 4.2 lbs., just at the lower limits of what I was seeking. But, I built it; I may as well test it.
 
  Surprisingly, it threw well. Then, for some reason, I thought maybe with a longer dart I need to lengthen my lead step. And.it was a defining moment in my career. The throw was like silk. The coordination was perfect, the throw strong and effortless. And this is what you seek. When done correctly, as Chuck B. has been heard to say, it feels like a thing of beauty.
 
COMFORT AND EASE WITH YOUR EQUIPMENT
  This is a very important and necessary step. I have argued for years against the practice of taking novice throwers, putting them on a line and urging them to hit a target. Rather, the novice should take their equipment into a large open field and learn to use the atlatl to launch the dart. This should be done daily until some degree of accuracy is attained, but more important, comfort and familiarity with the equipment is developed.
 
  Overcoming, controlling or becoming one with your equipment is important. Having confidence in your equipment removes all that from consideration while practicing for accuracy. Assuming you have dependable and trustworthy equipment, the quest for accuracy can begin.
 
THE THROWING
  The throw consists of many parts: the stance, the hold, aiming, step forward, and the delivery. Oh, and not to mention your mind, but more on that later. Each part will be examined but let's look at the whole.
 
Standing either facing the target, or standing sideways to the target, with feet together, are the most common beginning stances. The dart is brought up to the side of the head. A forward motion is initiated by stepping forward, and there will be a tendency to be drawing the arm back, and then beginning the forward acceleration of the atlatl into the dart. The front foot should be planted, weight transferred to that foot, and the throw completed by driving the hook of the atlatl into the nock of the dart, and final thrust supplied by 'breaking' or 'flipping' the wrist and following through. Probably not enough is said about planting the front foot, but stability is very important.  
 
You cannot be consistent or confident if you're slipping and sliding around.
 
  In describing the throwing action I often note that it is much like throwing an apple off a stick; or hitting a badminton birdie, or serving a tennis ball. In all of these a device extending the length of the arm is utilized. Timing is necessary to deliver ultimate impact and force to the object being struck, or thrown.
 
BE SIMPLE AND CUT DOWN ON UNNECESSARY MOVEMENTS
  Previously noted, throwing consists of many parts that must be coordinated if consistency and accuracy are to be developed and maintained. While pursuing this I've attempted to cut down on unnecessary movements. Movement imparts vibration to the dart. The less extraneous movements, the less there is to go wrong, thus the less to concentrate and focus on. It's tough enough, don't make it tougher.
 
  The best way to begin is to keep your stance simple. I've worked several ways over the years. First, I stood facing the target, dart up over my right shoulder and pointed at the target, took a one step approach and delivered the dart. It was mostly mechanical. I stood with the dart in line with the target, set the dart at a certain height, and stepped and threw it. I adjusted the height I held the dart at until it hit the center of the target. I was semi-aiming, but I knew if I stood, held and delivered the same each time, the result would be pretty good.
 
Rote memorization of total body mechanics. It works and many operate this way with great success.
 
  I also experimented with an open sideways stance, using only body motion to transfer weight to the front foot. This was an attempt to eliminate the forward step from the equation as its here that aim is most likely to be affected because of all that is happening, i.e. forward step, arm draws back then front. It can be done, it's still a matter of timing and coordination but I argue that force suffers a bit.
 
Force imparted is important and will be discussed momentarily, but I can make a stronger more confident throw by stepping into it, rather than shifting into it.
 
STANCE
  For me the best stance has proven to simply have good posture throughout the process. I can do this over and over again and know where I am, know where I'm positioning the dart at and be confident I'm close to where I want to be. Avoid crouching, hunching, tilting the head or anything along these lines.
 
THE HOLD
  The most common hold is to bring the dart up over the shoulder to a ready position. Another place many throws go wrong is that moment when the forward step is begun, and drawing the arm back, to begin forward motion and delivery.
 
  My hold position is with the dart next to my ear, elbow up, and my arm drawn back nearly to its fullest draw. Now, all my motion is forward, much of the drawback is eliminated and a major problem area is reduced.
 
DELIVERY AND FORCE
  Before delivery we have to talk about force. I feel this is a key to consistency. I've heard and seen others indicate that as one moves to greater distances you have to throw harder. I say nay! Here's why.
 
  Currently I use 4-ounce darts. My coordination and timing is geared to 4-ounce darts. If I pick up a 2 ounce aluminum dart and use the delivery I've practiced with 4 ounces, that aluminum dart will sail way wide off to the right. To bring it into line and on target, I have to adjust my delivery to the new weight, which requires holding longer into the arc before final impetus is imparted. I've had to change my
delivery to accommodate the weight. This isn't good and is a prime reason all the darts in your quiver should be close to the same weight, flex, etc., but most important that they all act the same for your delivery.
 
  By throwing harder you change the mechanics you have worked so hard to achieve. A harder force imparted to the dart makes it react differently. Further, by throwing harder you lose some control over the aiming of the dart, another very important thing to be gone over shortly. The whole act of throwing is a controlled ascendancy to a controlled velocity. You cannot throw all out. Well, all right, you can, but I challenge you to be at all accurate. It's a delivery that is coordinated, forceful, yet controlled.
 
  So, develop a delivery that is good for all distances! Force is a major ingredient. We're all familiar with it or we'd never hit the target. However, there's force enough to get your dart to the target, and force enough to keep it on a line to the target.
 
  The throw you develop should serve you from 5m to 25m or more. I often see people at close distances adjusting their throws and trying to 'place' their shots with deft touches or other adjustments. Here again you're messing with your learned mechanics. With this game, as with most target games, the closer the target, the greater confidence and success one has in scoring well. I develop my force at 5-10m. I love 5-10m, let me shoot there all day! I have a great deal of confidence at those ranges, and can throw hard and score well. This is where you should begin, to build your confidence and to work on your force. At those ranges you should be able to hold the dart right on line and throw it straight and true. Remember at all times to be working on a delivery that is smooth, coordinated and flows into the final thrust.
 
  My line of thought was "Hmm, pretty consistent and deadly at 5-10m. It doesn't make sense that 5m more should make such a difference." What changes? Most of the problem for many is that they try and throw harder. What they, and you, should be doing is concentrating on keeping your throw and mechanics the same, but let elevation take care of the change in distance. Gravity works! If you can train your mind to think you're at 10m when you're at 15, but aim a little higher, and guess what? Your accuracy will improve.
 
  Now we have to mention the sighting process because if you hope to become accurate you'll have to learn the process. And there is a way to do it. Bring the dart in close to the side of your face, look down the dart, and align the tip with a spot on the target. If you're at 5-10m, aim that point right at center. Keep it there, concentrate on keeping the tip stationary and in place and on-line throughout the forward step and all the way to the time you send it on its way. Here again is another key issue. There are many important things, as we've seen, but perhaps most important is this right here, keeping the tip in place and on-line. Any deviation of the tip off-line will be magnified by the time the dart travels to the target, so concentration on keeping the tip on-line and in-line is crucial to accuracy.
 
  As you increase distance from the target, begin elevating your dart tip to accommodate the distance. For example, at 15m I expect my dart to drop just a bit. I can get it to hold a straight line if I throw really hard, but that messes up the mechanics. I do better if I do just what I mentioned to you; make my mind think I'm at 10m, not 15. I take aim at the 9 above the bulls-eye, and try to throw my dart to that area with the confidence of a 10m throw. Believe me, it works.
 
  As another example, when I move back to 20m, my aim point is raised to the eight or seven above the bulls-eye, and I try to hit that area, and let gravity do the rest. There is a saying they have in bowling that is very appropriate here: trust is a must, or your game is a bust. You have to elevate your tip, concentrate on your delivery, keep your mechanics, coordination and force under control, and trust gravity.
 
   Now, back to the hold and delivery. You should be holding the dart in next to your head for sighting purposes. I have mine in so close that sunglasses interfere with my sighting. I have mine in so close that when I get to 20m I have to make sure my hat brim is out of the way when I raise the dart to aim. Next, I bring the dart to full draw or nearly so. As mentioned, a major area where problems exist is the drawing back of the arm before delivery. Well, get it back there right away.
 
  You have to have the tip of your dart in your vision and on your mind at all times, making sure that it stays where you want it. It's very important that you keep the dart tip in its relative position during your step and right on into the delivery. Even though at full draw, there will still be some stretching out of the arm and you must focus on keeping the dart in position. It will seem like the dart and your arm are going backward, but actually you are keeping those mostly stationary and moving the rest of your body around them. Any deviation here and you will be off-line with your throw, or struggling to bring it back to position as you throw.
 
GOOD PRACTICE HABITS
  You now have all the ingredients that have allowed me a degree of success. I put all these together during practice. I have a mental checklist I use for each throw. This gives me something to focus on.
 
Concentration and focus are essential. You need to constantly analyze your throws to determine where problems are and what's going wrong. And there will be problems. This is not an easy thing. 
 
Consistency is not easy because of all the factors just gone over. I liken this to golf, or bowling. One little thing that you fail to pay attention to can let you down.
 
  This mental checklist involves: grip on atlatl, stance, hold, aim, step, delivery, force and follow through, all the while concentrating on keeping the tip in position. You should also develop a mental template wherein you envision yourself executing a perfect throw. Then, you try to make it happen. You have to think yourself through each step, in a smooth flow of energy, culminating in sending the dart on
its intended trajectory.
 
BE MENTALLY PREPARED
  The ISAC is a very unforgiving contest. One bad throw and your game goes south in a hurry. And, this fact is always on your mind. And now we get to the last thing that needs worked on, and that will be your mind. It's quite the remarkable thing that a person can be throwing just fine, and consistent but let the word 'official' be uttered, and
grown men have been seen to have legs of jelly. Women make a mad dash to the bathroom. People start throwing up.
 
  And this is where your mind comes in. The adrenaline starts pumping.
 
You know that if you screw up just once you're going to have a tough game. Just once you mess up, and you won't be right for a week. You have to focus, concentrate and try to control the heebie-jeebies generated by the excitement; the people talking, laughing and carrying on; the plane flying overhead; the bug that landed on your nose; the dog barking and the baby crying. Not to mention all those people watching, what if you mess up, miss the target? All are working against you, wanting you to make that one screw up.
 
  But you can conquer these things. If you get 'in the zone', you'll hear none of that. You can train yourself to ignore all that stuff and concentrate on the task at hand. It does take work, and it does take practice. At least, for some of us. There may well be those who are just plain good and can go throw 90s at will. They'll be rare, and it's probably not you, so take thee out, find a routine that gets you focused, a delivery and aim that gets you to the center of the target, and practice, grasshopper, practice.